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Distance casting including backcast shoot:
Versión en español
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-- Introduction
basic1
basic2
different styles
the grip
shooting line
drift
power snap
backcast
hauling
loop shape
direction
across the wind
into the wind
with the wind
side casting
underhand cast
Belgian cast
different lifts
backcast shoot
overhang
basic roll cast
roll cast variations
off the shoulder
wind
dynamic roll
Spey Casting
double right
double left
single right
single left
spey fishing
switch cast
snake roll
fly first
wriggle
pile
parachute
reach
mending line
curved
bow and arrow
steeple
tension
rotating thumb
tip kicks

The most powerful casting position for the start of the forward cast is what is commonly called the 90-90 position: the upperarm is stuck out at 90 degrees to the body and the forearm is at 90 degrees to the upperarm. This the ultimate throwing position; its how we throw spears, javelins, stones, balls and flyrods. You must remember to lead with the elbow, just as you would with a spear.

Directing the cast with the elbow gives (me) a much smoother stroke.

I have said it previously but let me remind you that one of the best ways to learn distance casting is to stop crisply into the backcast. So make sure you do just that: stop abruptly; don't concentrate on a powerful backcast, but rather on an abrupt stop. We need that line to fire backwards off the tip of the rod into a narrow loop.

On the forward cast we really need to concentrate on forcing a deep bend into the rod.

One of the best ways of forcing a deep bend is to aerialise more line. Most anglers currently use weight-forward profile flylines. One problem that the beginner encounters early on with this line, is false casting with too much overhang. As soon as your cast gets beyond the weight forward head section the line starts to hinge and collapse. BUT we can get away with an overhang on the last backcast. By shooting 2, 3, 4 or even 10 and more yards of line into the last backcast greater flex can be forced into the rod, and hence greater distances can be achieved. There are two ways:

  • The first is the method I use; with lots of practise it is possible to feel your way through the overhang

  • The second is a much more precise method; a permanent marker pen is used to mark the line at the hauling hand, indicating when the tip of the weight forward head is just outside the tip ring. And then another mark is made some two to three yards further on down the line away from the head. When retrieving line, the first mark you come to is gripped and the retrieve continued until the second mark comes to hand. At this point the caster knows, that were he to lift off at this moment and shoot the coiled loop into his backcast, he would get a great cast.

But as I said I use the first method. But of course I practice...