Up to now we have purely
dealt with two types of cast: the overhead
cast and the roll cast - every type of cast
can be regarded as being one or the other,
except the flickcast.
In order to understand what I
mean by a flickcast I want to give you the
following example:
with a fairly short
length, say eight yards, of line
outside the rod tip and lying
directly in front make a lift as if
you were going to perform a
side-cast, but
as your rod tip draws
level with your shoulder, swiftly
sweep the rod tip under the flyline,
stopping hard
the line will lift
off the water a travel directly
behind the caster - if it doesn't
then not enough force has been
applied to the stop
Another way to look at this
cast is to draw a clockwise semicircle off
the right shoulder (anticlockwise off the
left) speeding up during the second half of
the stroke.
Once a basic feel for this
flick has been acquired the following should
be noted:
The diameter of the
drawn semicircle determines the width
of the loop. The smaller the
diameter; the narrower the loop.
Instead of drawing
U-shape semicircles, you can draw
V-shapes.
The line will travel
diagonally opposite to the direction
of the flick and therefore, can be
used as change of direction for up to
90 degrees.
With shorter flick
casts, it is possible to follow the
loop around behind you with the tip
of the rod, after the stop, in order
to take out the slack line.
With really powerful
forward stokes you can lift the
entire flyline of the water and send virtually
all of it behind you. Even with a weight
forward.
No other cast will do this.
This
cast does not fit into either the
roll cast or the overhead cast mould:
with both of these casts the line
travels in the same direction that
the rod unbends; with the flick cast,
the line travels in the opposite
direction.
OK so
why do you need this?
Boat fishing:
A fish rises just to
upwind and to the side of the boat -
you can catch fish appearing behind
you, immediately without any
complicated manoeuvres.
A fish rises to the
right of you - same cast. So long as
the change of angle is greater than
90 degrees this cast will work. You
can take more line out of the cast by
making a larger semicircular stroke.
River fishing:
You are on the dangle
(true left, upstream wind in this
example) and you want to put the fly
upstream and across the current.
Here's what to do:
Make you
flickcast so that the line is
lying directly upstream
Wait
fractionally for the fly to
drift downstream so that it
will be positioned in line
with the roll cast
Switch the
line around the body with a
half-moon dip
Hit the roll
Follow up
with an overhead (if
required)
Or perhaps you are
fishing a small stream and have no
room for any conventional cast. Try
this:
Point the rod
downstream and wiggle some
line out through the tip ring
until it is lying straight.
Make your
flickcast upstream to the
fish, and as the line is
straightening gentle follow
it around with the rod tip,
to take out the slack
You can also use this
cast downstream (assuming that you
can get the line lying fairly
straight in the upstream direction),
but under these circumstances I would
recommend not following the flyline
with the rod tip to take out the
slack, but rather using the slack
line to your benefit.
Another circumstance
springs to mind when I use this cast:
it is when I have covered a lie in a
river and now I find that all my line
is racing downstream to some
obstruction (such as a logjam). Here
to get out of trouble just make your
flickcast upstream, and all your line
will neatly clear the water and come
back to your feet.
Once a feel for this cast has
been acquired, you will find yourself (like
with hauling) feeding it into other casts.
Such as the single-spey. Try this for
example:
Well it looks sexy! And it
has the advantage that the flyline tip can be
placed very accurately when setting up for
the roll.
Instead of casting the line
off to the side of the body, it is possible
to cast it into the body. I don't recommend
this as it seems to me to be particularly
foolhardy; but this is one method used for
catching the fly.
------
NB: Although I
have principally applied these techniques to the
application of a single handed flyrod, they are all
(with the exception of hauling) exactly the same
casts one would use with a double handed rod.
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