Riding Giants

  Often times when I have large epoxy orders to fill, I'll try to find some sort of long-form podcast, or documentary to watch on TV while I work. Usually, it's something fishing-related, but I also have other interests as well, some of which I don't even participate in...one of those is surfing. Although I did spend a few summers back in the early 1990's doing some amateur wave riding on Padre Island, Texas unfortunately, has never been known for its stellar surf. Having said that, I do have an infatuation with surf films...especially the type that document the history of the sport.

I have seen the film "Riding Giants" several times before, but it has been a while, so I decided that this weekend would be a good time to revisit this fantastic movie. It is a phenomenal documentary film that explores the evolution of big wave surfing.

I think that one of the things that attracts me to the sport of surfing is the fact that there are so many parallels between the folks who have built their life around surfing, and the folks who have built their life around fishing. So many of the personal anecdotes and quotes in this movie can and do apply 100% to fishing with just a few changes in verbage. Take for example Sam George's quote above and replace the term surfing with fishing; "If you applied the same amount of devotion to a religious pursuit, do you think anyone would call you a religious bum? Probably not, but when you consider that fishing, more than anything else, is a faith, and the devotion to that faith becomes paramount in your life, there is no such thing as a fishing bum." Speaking for myself, this is 100% true, and I'd venture to guess that many, if not most of you feel the same way.

As I get older, and make it a priority to introduce Jack to so many of the places that I spent my younger years unrolling a loop to tailing Redfish and Trout, I have to hide the fact that often times I become a bit emotional when visiting these old fishing spots. Not just because of the time I get to spend with my son, but also  because the experiences that I have been fortunate enough to take part in at these places have been permanently etched in my mind....memories that have not, and hopefully will not fade with time. I've wondered sometimes if I am the only one that has these emotional reactions, but after watching Riding Giants again, I am reminded that I am not. Even if you're not interested in surfing, watching big wave pioneer Greg Knoll become emotional during the ending credits it's worth the price of admission.

"Even today, when I go over there, to Waimea you know it just blows me away. It's like, here she is...the same beautiful woman, only now she's snuggling up to the next generation, and the next generation. But, the last time I went, I swear to god I looked out man, and I could....I think she winked at me. You know when one of them big sets came along, and the sun was dancing off the face of that wave, and the wind was blowing the top off, and some guy was streaking, she kind of went "HEY GREG KNOLL, I REMEMBER YOU"........it makes me almost goddamn cry, and I am not a very emotion guy you know?

I know Greg.....I know.

Hope you all are having a great week,

Andy