There’s something very special about getting into some of New Zealand’s most wild and beautiful places. In late March myself and Chuan did just that. We had a couple of days. Day 1 was very sunny but with a brutal downstream wind which certainly cost us a few fish. The late season sun cast contrasting shadows across the river making sighting challenging in many places. Fish were touchy but we had 6 for the day. A good day apart from Chuans hat blowing off and disappearing down a rapid. Shortly after he got in a fight with a sandfly which gave him a fat lip! Day 2 was cloudy with a little less wind. The cloud was better for sighting than the sun. The diffuse light caused by the cloud and having a good backdrop to sight against was an ideal combination for sighting. That was a good lesson for this river in March. Fish were even more spooky on day 2. Sometimes we’d quietly arrive at a pool and sight a fish. As quickly as we’d see him he’d just melt away into the pool. It was one of those days where they seemed to have an extra sense. We only managed a couple. No regrets though. Places like this are as much about the location as the fishing. There were hunters and other anglers in the hut too. A mix of Kiwis, Singaporean, Scotsmen and Irish. Some craic! I might have had a few beers and a whisky too many. I felt sorry for the hunters wanting an early night before their hunt.. that just didn’t happen!
After our wilderness adventure Kim arrived and the 3 of us got stuck in to a variety of fishing. Rivers and lakes both in the mix. I’ve been guiding Chuan and Kim for about 8 years now and still try to show them something new on every trip. This was no exception and we had some good fishing on a river and a lake they saw for the first time. This is why exploring new water is so important to me. I want to keep it fresh and interesting for myself and my clients.
June now and my streamers are doing the business! For a look at all my flies check out this link. For bookings and info about next season please check out my website or contact me ronan@sexyloops.com
I usually get the chance to get into Fjordland once or twice a season. I’ve been a visitor to the area since my second trip to NZ back in 2003. I have many great memories from this vast area with lots of my fishing buddies. Wekas stealing our biscuits (I got the blame), melting my boots and socks beside the fire, almost getting stranded in a flood, filming “the man and his fish”, exploring new rivers, assembling a raft with zip ties, duct tape and tent string, catching seatrout, rainbows, browns, kahawai and jack mackerel, and many more… This trip cemented a few more great memories.
The fishing was magnificent as the photos below make pretty clear, but as I get older I think I appreciate this location and others like it even more. It’s a truely pristine environment. Looking around, it’s as though man has had no impact on the area. Frequently, I found myself gazing up the valley with my jaw hanging open, awestruck, expecting a moa to wander past. I think this is what makes it the cream of angling in many ways. Unreal scenery, gin clear water, good numbers fish of an impressive average size, keen to eat dries (and nymphs!). It’s the picture of NZ that many foreign anglers have in their head. Fish & Game have implemented strict controls on some rivers in the area to prevent overfishing and maximise angler satisfaction. I think they’re working very well. That and the sandflies! We had a few days of fishing back in normal NZ after that (next blog). There was certainly a bit of an anticlimax coming from such a magnificent wilderness which compounds why it’s such a special place.
One of the highlights of the trip was randomly bumping into my great friends Robbie and Tom with a couple of their friends. Plenty room for everyone at the backcountry hut! Good food and fine wine, great company, a fire on the beach, a few beers, plenty craic… what’s not to like. A really great trip. Hopefully we’ll get back next season!
I would like to say that Fjordland Outdoors are a fantastic company to deal with. Very professional and accommodating. Great staff and a super boat to get you where ever you need to go.
As always, my Fulling Mill patterns did the business. Mainly the Tussock Cicada and my range of nymphs. All available here.
Plenty spaces still available for next season. It’s filling up quickly so I advise not wasting too much time to secure your spot. Contact me ronan@sexyloops.com or visit my website
Tight lines.. Ronan..
Heading across the lake and into the wilderness.The boat across gave us time the appreciate the magnitude of the place!Can’t recommend the folks at Fjordland Outdoors highly enough. Excellent service.And off we go!First look at the river..What a place..It didn’t take too long to find feeding fish..Moving upstream..Bryan working a lovely pool. Clear Fjordland water..Bryan into one.Super brown.Nice bow for me!Searching..Bryan in again..Just love this water..Reel screamers!Some cool looking fungus on the walk back to camp..Time to relax and drink some wine!Lovely!Getting ready for day 2..The river is just as spectacular around every bend..Tim in..One of the better fish over the 2 days..Another healthy rainbow.Looking downstream..Time for lunch..Lunch while watching trout!Back to business..Magnificent!The cream of angling in many ways..Some deep water and the fish were there..Time working some deep water.Bryan puts some scale on this awesome place.Just seeing the river was as good as the fishing.There has to be something on the left..And there was!One for me on my tussock cicada.Magic..Just beautiful ..Then this for me on my brown nymph. Fat!Made my 2 days!Stunning.. Not often do we see red spots on trout from gin clear water.Keep moving upstream enjoying every minute.Fishy!3 huge trees growing unusually close together.Another crossing.This is truely as nature intended it. A pristine environment.Coming the end of 2 great days fishing.One more for Tim.More of this funky stuff..Back at the hut to find these feckers had moved in!Another modest campfire.Heading out on the morning of day 3. Tom and Robbie. A great and totally chance meeting in the wilds of Fjordland.Time to go.. “I’ll be back”
As we flew deep into Fjordland last January I wondered what might make this adventure an adventure. Something always happens when you put yourself in the hands of nature. Could be good, could be bad, maybe dangerous maybe not but something always adds to the story…
We landed about 3kms up a river which flows directly into a Flord. It looked as if we were above the tidal zone so we thought it should be a good base of opperations. Nick brought his raft so from here we could access the fjord downstream or the main river upstream. The objective for the 3 days was to learn and explore as much of the system as possible by foot and raft from the ocean to the headwaters. When the heli departed we were alone in the wilderness. I joked that I hoped we haden’t forgotten anything.
Day 1.
After considering the weather forecast we decided that the best option for day 1 was the main river. The sea breeze in the forecast might make the fjord difficult for the oarsman. Upstream was a very large, long pool; barely flowing. We decided to assemble the raft to get through that first pool to access the flowing river above it. It made sence to have that job done anyway. As we started to assemble the raft I noticed Nick looking a little bothered – and nothing bothers Nick! “What’s up”, I asked? “Forgot the bolts’ he said.. Feck. Okay, so this is a hurdle. We have a raft but we can’t assemble the frame. Not going to let this beat us, we gathered what we could to put the raft together. Tent string, 80lb nylon, duct tape and zip-ties. What couldn’t be assembled with that? Well not this raft! Before long we were all go. MacGyver would have been proud. After a couple of teething problems we advanced up river. As we rowed up Nick questioned the damp green slime on the logs. Is this tidal? We agreed that it could be but wern’t totally sure. When we got to the end of the long pool we tied up the raft with 80lb test and continued upriver on foot.
The river was small, a few cumecs I guess. Clear and beautiful flowing through pristine beech forest. A mix of bouldery pools and gravelly runs. Ideal trout water. We quickly moved upstream without trout to slow us down. We blind fished now and again when a piece of water screamed fish – but they weren’t there. We fished to about a kilometre short of where the river becomes unfishable. At that point we decided not to push on since they simply weren’t there. Apart from a couple of 2lbers we saw nothing. After a 2 hour hike back down the river we got to the raft. It was strewn up on top of some logs with the 80lb test tangled in a root system. I guess it was tidal. I rowed back down the long pool. About 20m from camp, Nick hooked into a super fish from the raft. A great surprise. A 6.5lb stunning seatrout and a perfect end to the fishing day. We got back to camp and cracked open a cold beer from Nicks Yeti and got the fire going. I then set to work cooking steak, spuds and beans. Good food, company, fire and few beers in the wilderenss is hard to beat…
Day 2.
The best weather day. Since there were no fish in the river then they must be in the tidal zone. Nicks big seatrout from tidal water the evening before certainly made us feel very excited about 3kms of tidal river water before getting to the fjord. We set off at about 7am. Nick on oars and me casting. Teamwork. Nick keeping the boat on the best bank, just far enough out for me to efficiently and effectively cover the water with my streamer. After a slow start I picked up a fish from a stream mouth. Then the fishing really amped up. We’d catch about 2 a piece and then swap positions – oars for the rod. The fish generally weren’t big but the action was pretty constant. We were fishing this tidal zone at low tide. There was great excitement as the tight river section opened out into an awesome fjord. Just to see it was enough. But what will we find here? First up was a very fishy shorline. We pulled up the raft and fished it from the shore – and it was good! We landed quite a few here before heading for the drop-off where thousands or years of deposition from the river meets the ocean. Now and agian the tent string keeping the oarlocks from falling down would break. We got pretty good at fixing this on the fly. a couple of minutes and we were off again. The flats on the way from the river to the drop-off looked fishy we saw very little. There were occasional bust-ups out in the black ocean water, sometimes close to the drop-off. This was clearly an opportunity. Before we persued that we tried for a blue cod for dinner. We were depending on catching fish for dinner! Nick and I lost one each but didn’t get one. As luck would have it, A cray boat in the bay saw us and came in for chat. A beautiful boat called the Amazon. Certainly the nicest fishing boat I’ve seen! The crew were a very sound bunch of fellas and we chatted for quite a while. When they offered us a few cray tails we happily said yes please! Dinner was sorted. Before they went on their way they towed us way out into the fjord so that we could drift back in with the wind and catch some cod. The idea was good but it was unsuccessful. We then turned our attention to the drop-off and the bust-ups. When a shot finally presented I picked up my 7 weight trout rod. I hooked a kahawai (probably – but who knows) which took off out and down. When I was near the end of my backing he broke me. My mistake. Wrong rod. More to the point – wrong reel. The birds were following the fish so we followed the birds. This was not easy on oars with considerable wind. Finally another opportunity. This time I picked up Nick’s 10 wt Scott Meridian with a large Hatch reel on it. This time I was correctly armed and landed a nice kahawai after a super strong fight. Nick and I hooked a couple of others too but just the one landed. It was high summer so the days were long. That was a good thing because we were about 6kms from camp and it was getting late. We wanted to fit in the fishy bank again too. By now the tide would be low again. We got another couple there before the row up the tidal zone of the river channel. The tide was going out again which slowed the progress on oars but still no major problem. The fishing was quiet while I rowed. Nick took the last kilometre on oars while I fished again. Then, right at camp (just like yesterday) I hooked into a strong fish. I caught a glimpse and said it wasn’t a trout or a kahawai. To my delight a jack mackerel came to the net. This is an ocean fish 3kms up a river in fresh water! Tidal, yes – but fresh water. What a day. It was 9.30pm by the time we made it back to camp. I got a big fire going. Nick was on cooking duty. Spuds, beans and crayfish. Probably the best crayfish I’ve eaten thanks to Nick the chef and the fishermen from the Amazon. After Nick went to his tent I stayed up for a while to wind down and just relax by the fire. I needed it after a non-stop brilliant day.
Day 3.
The main river was not an option so it had to be the tidal zone again. With the tide slightly different we had a chance to see it in another light. This was indeed interesting. With higher water in the tidal zone the fishing was very poor. Nick got one or 2 and I got my best trout of the trip. A stunning, fat seatrout. A great result but nowhere near the numbers of trout on the previous day. Down at the fishy bank, we arrived on low tide and it was good again. We caught a few. The advancing tide filled the edges quickly and this knocked out the fishing. We thought it might improve it but it didn’t. At least not on this day! We then fished the flats concentrating on the gutters or anything fishy. It was quiet but nick did get a follow from a very large trout. Possibly over 10lbs – that sort of big. Time flew by and we had a heli to catch. We checked out some shallows filling up with the rising tide. These were full of whitebait. I’m sure trout would come into these areas at times but not today. The row back up river was easy with the flowing tide. We got back to camp at high tide. Funny how our timing worked out – this was the first time we saw camp at high tide in 3 days. Luckily there was enough gravel for the heli to land. We took the raft apart and laughed about how the duct tape, zip-ties, 80lb nylon and tent string held it together for 3 days of hardship. With everything packed up there was time to sit down and have a beer and chat about 3 amazing days exploring this system. We discussed what we had learned and agreed that it left us with more questions than answers. We’ll just have to go back!
Nick Reygaert
Most of you will have seen some of Nicks fly fishing productions from The Source to Pure Fly NZ and so much in between. You might know him as a cameraman more than an angler. Well I can tell you something – he’s an angler first and foremost, and one of the toughest I’ve had the pleasure of fishing with. Dawn til dusk is no problem for him. Fly fishing is his life whether he’s behind a camera or not.
Tight lines, Ronan.
Ps, for guiding bookings visit my website or email me ronan@sexyloops.com. For a look at my flies available from Fulling Mill, including the streamers I used on this trip, click here. FYI, just enough time to grab some kiwi duns and size 16 clarets for the end of april – best hatch fishing of the year!
Flying into Fjordland wilderness..
The persuit of adventure!
Dropped beside camp for the few days..
First to assemble the raft..
..Nick forgot the bolts so zip-ties and duct tape will have to do!
Ready to go upstream. We’ll use the boat to get through this long pool..
With the boat tied up – possibly in the tidal zone – the fishing begins..
Beautiful water..
Had to take the packs off for this crossing!
So much potential but not seeing any fish..
Great to see this place..
Water getting fishier..
..but still no fish!
No fish here either..
..or here..
I think we timed the river wrong. The fish must be in the tidal zone at this time of year.
We fished almost all the fishable water and saw just 2 small fish.
After 2 hours walk we were back at the boat.
Clearly it was in the tidal zone! Luckily the 80lb nylon held it!
Nick got this cracker at camp from the boat at the very end of the day!
A brilliant 6.5lb trout.
Camp.
Excited about the prospect of day 2 in the tidal zone..
My first of the trip..
Great action at low tide in the tidal zone heading to the fjord.
Lots of fish!
A goodie for Nick..
..one for me.
The fishy bank.
Then back in the boat to get to the drop-off.
What a place.
Right out at the drop-off into the deep sea.
Searching for blue cod for dinner. We lost a couple.
Then these fellas came for a chat! A really sound crayfish crew. They gave us crays for dinner!
Then into a kahawai, finally!
They can pull! The 10 weight Scott and Hatch were well tested.
A quick stop on the way back to camp.
The camp fish! 3kms up the tidal zone in fresh water – a Jack Mackerel!
The waterfall at camp.
It was after 9pm when we got to camp so dinner was late!
Nick did a great job on the pan,
One of the best dinners ever!
Happy days is right!
Breakfast on day 3.
Dragging down the boat.
Running repairs.
Back down the tidal zone. Certainly no point going up river.
Fishing was much harder with the slight change of tide.
The oar rope broke frequently. We learned to fix it in a couple of minutes.
My fish of the trip on the Killer Smelt!
A beautiful seatrout..
Heading back to camp for pick-up.
Checking out a backwater en-route.
Rowing back after a super 3 days.
The raft did surprisingly well held together with string, tape and zip-ties! H&S at its best!
Packing up.
The 500 arrives. Great machines – they can carry a lot of weight.
Take my advice and never go into Fjordland if rain is forecast. I learned this lesson in style one time. It rained, the river rose rapidly and we were on the wrong side of it. We rashly stuffed everything we had with us into our packs and attempted a 4 man crossing. This means we all link arms, put the biggest fella up into the current and the lightest lad downstream. We only just made it across to the safety of the rough track out.
Jeff and I had intended going into Fjordland together but I got caught up on the beer with some great friends from home so I was a day late. When Jeff went in, the forecast was good. A day later it was terrible. Heavy rain and storm was forecast for that night and for the next 2 days. With that forecast only a madman would go in but I had planned to meet Jeff in there so I went against my better judgement. Partly because I said I would and partly for Jeff’s safety’s sake. I know he can take care of himself, but my conscience would not let me rest if I did not go in, and what if the shit did hit the fan? It’s always easier for 2 to face it. He had no idea what was coming.
I got in, made camp, went for a fish, made a huge fire, chilled out, then Jeff appeared back after his day on the water. The rain had started but it was not too bad. The fire and wine kept us happy anyway. After our steak dinner it pissed down so we had to retire to the tents. Shortly after going to bed, thunder and lightning roared and electrified the valley and the rain got heavier. I was very close to getting up and getting out while we still could. Jeff was thinking the same but we both decided to brave it. The rain pounded the tents and the thunder storm was getting closer. Sleep was not possible. Again I thought we should go before the river got too high to cross but we stayed put. Then silence… and sleep.
The rain stopped during the night. We woke to nice morning, the clouds were high and white and moving swiftly across a blue sky but things felt settled. Or was that optimism? Maybe it was, I’m not sure. The river was high but fishable and crossable. To error on the safe side of caution we took our tents down and moved them to the safe side of the river. You may wonder why we didn’t pitch our tents there in the first place. Well it’s illegal. That’s true but the real reason is because I could not find Jeff’s camp when I got in so I made camp roughly where we planned to meet and also in an obvious, easy to see place. Jeff was camped way farther up than usual. When he found me we decided to stay there and take our chances as the rain was light.
Fortune favoured the bold once again. There was no more rain. The fishing was epic.
Ronan..
This week on SLTV, Part 2 of my introduction to the series. In this episode from Fjordland I modify expensive boots, break and fix my reel, Paul catches the ugliest fish, and we have a little competition. We catch 29 browns! But who catches the most??……
The view through the bow wave from the the boat against a flat calm, black
Lake Te Anau on the way to fjordland…
Lots of rain forecast but right now it looks good!
Home for a few days..
Jeff made his intentions clear so I went East! He got in a day before me..
No idea what this is, But I know someone who will find out! Breandan??
I fished for 2 or 3 hours on day one and landed just one. The sandflies were brutal!
Like something out of a fairy tale!
I didn’t see many fish but the surrounds were spectacular!
Another modest campfire satisfying my arsonist tendencies…
New Zealand Robin… very inquisitive birds!
These fella’s play an important role keeping the masses out!
A cold start to my day 2, 3 for Jeff..
This is the steepest sided valley I know of.. We got no sun until about 2.30, maybe even later.
We had heaps of these!
Strong fish.. as always up here!
Makes the cast…
The take and strike!
The line leaps from the ground with the first run! This can be dangerous, if the line wraps around anything it could result in a bust off!
A good fish safely landed…
So much feature, so much contrast, so many fish!
Rainbow!
What a place to fish..
We were getting them on all sorts of methods, flies, and water!
A nicely marked rainbow..
Jeff with his best of the trip! 6lbs..
My best of the trip.. 5lbs
Packed up and heading out.. rod still rigged just in case!
Here I’m trying to take a hook out of a damaged fish.. Someone broke in him. I almost got it!
Jeff had a lot of fish over the few days. This was one of the best!
A bonus fish on the walk out.. I saw a small eye that had to hold a fish and it did!
Reminded me of the rat-monkey from Pete Jackson’s “Braindead”! Maybe that’s a little extreme!!
Not sure what this mean looking thing is! It was on the boat! Another Fjordland mission ends…
Possibly the most beautiful place on earth! Thanks Jeff for this amazing panorama and many other photo’s..
Fishing for really big trout is an addiction. There are lots of options available to me but at the moment I’m targeting big fish at a few locations. I cant help myself! For Easter the plan is a little different. Jeff Forsee and I are heading into fjordland. We are unlikely to find fish of the size and calibre you’ve been seeing and reading about in my recent reports but who knows, there are a few big fish in there. Big fish is not the purpose anyway. It’s about getting into the wilderness for a few days and making the most of what ever opportunities we get. Fjordland is good for the soul.
The weekend gone by was another epic one. Kristian and I got ourselves organised on Saturday for 3 days in the wild fishing with packs on. The idea being that we fish until we’ve had enough and then make camp where ever that is, we then continue from there the next day. This is a great way to explore but the walk out after a few days fishing can be really tough!
We had Saturday evening, all day Sunday and Monday morning to fish. I got a 9.5lb stunning red trout on arrival on Saturday. First cast actually! That was it.
Saturday was different. While Kristian was cooking some breakfast and I was contemplating the day ahead I noticed a sprightly individual moving at pace up river. In no time he was at our camp. It was Robbie Mcphee. At the speed he was moving I expected it would be! These can be awkward situations. How do we all divide up the river? Robbie and I met once before so that made this chance situation a little easier. We chatted for a while and decided we would fish together! Once we got our gear packed away we got to it. We went shot for shot. In the early part of the day we basically had 3 chances each. I landed one 6lber, lost a really big fish and broke in a small fish. Robbie landed 2 close on 9lbs. Kristian landed an 8.5lber, a 10.25lber and a 10.75lber. I’ve only had one over 10 in all my years here.
We had a few more shots in the afternoon but only landed a couple. I had both, some redemption from my morning efforts! They were both very memorable fish; the first, Kristian had the first shot but snagged a rock, then Robbie had a go but snagged a tree, then I took my shot and sent my fly into the zone and got the fish. I learned from my 2 predecessors and took up a better position. The other fish was from a very deep pool where i let my single size 14 nymph sink to the bottom. I watched the fish cruise near where I expected the fly to be and struck at the sight of a mouth flash. It was a satisfying moment when everything went tight! That fish was about 7.5lbs.
It was Kristians day. 2 over 10? That does not happen every day. Well done man!
The next day was nothing to write home about but all up it was a mission I’ll never forget. I know Kristian and Robbie wont forget it either. Robbie and I will fish together again soon, I look forward to that.
The winner of my competition from my first 100 subscribers is Eadaoin Ni Bhraoin, subscriber number 31! Congratulations to you Eadaoin, 2 return tickets to NZ in the post, sorry, no, 2 dvd’s!
Finally, This week on SLTV, My introduction to the series. This is the first of a 3 part show from Fjordland. In this show you will see the best footage of the hell that can be sand-flies ever filmed! Also some fish and some new characters…
I’m exhausted! This weeks report might seem a bit thrown together.. I wont get another chance to write it though because Easter and a new adventure starts after work tomorrow. Good night!
Stuntman Ronan..
ps. To view the images full size click it, then click it again when the thumbnail appears, and again to enlarge it even more!!. Wordprees made a change and I cant go back to the old way. Very annoying.
Getting everything in order!
A few flies by Kristian Bang Foss…
Ready for the back-country..
Not a bad sight to greet us at the river!
First cast…
Dream start (very late in the day though!) but this fish spooked the entire pool.
As usual, tippet destroyed and fly bent out. One more head shake and I’ve had lost that fish!
Sausages for dinner.. and whiskey.. and wine!
Camp.. No rush out of “bed”
No rush at all!
A bit hung over but charged with anticipation!
“I can taste 10lbers”
Robbie Mcphee appeared suddenly! We all fished together..
Another big fish for Robbie Mcphee! A passionate angler. He loves the fish and the game.
Bang Foss with the first of his doubles. this went 10.25lbs.
Around 9lbs for Robbie..
KBF into another brute…
Love this shot! 10.75lbs ripping line off the reel..
Almost there!
No disputing that this is a really big fish!
Unreal..
Robbie checks out a pool…
This from the very bottom of a deep pool. Yet another powerhouse..
Kicking back to relive an amazing day!
Another night on the river.. This big fella was beside my pack!
This one’s for you Breandan! What is this fungus? and the little snail beside it? And the spider while your at it!! That will keep you busy!! 🙂